Picture-Perfect Japanese Sandwiches Find a Home in SF. Japanese milk bread is deliciously soft yet it has a chewy mochi like texture. Both the curry and the sandwiches will also be available in January at the Berkeley Bowl West Cafe, where B-Dama has been operating for the past several months. Mix and let fermentation at room temp (73F) for 12 hours. What's the origin story of Hokkaido milk bread? Combine flour with water and milk and whisk together in a saucepan and whisk together. Gallo finalizes $810 million purchase from Constellation, one of the biggest... Concord’s Mel’s Diner closes, and other restaurant closures, In the Bay Area, casinos still offer on-site dining as lockdown continues. Legend has it that milk bread may have been actually invented by British baker Robert Clarke, who opened Yokohama Bakery in Japan back in 1862. The only thing might be a … Japanese milk bread, aka Hokkaido milk bread (in Japanese it’s called shokupan 食パン), is the softest and fluffiest bread that I have ever made. “They think cake, actually,” Ono says of the typical reaction he’s gotten from beta tasters so far — though the sandwiches are quite a bit less sweet than most cakes. “We didn’t eat crusty bread back home,” she said. It has such a tender crumb, almost cloud like! The bread is incredibly soft, … For the starter – Tangzhong. Although the popularity of Japanese sandos has exploded nationwide thanks to viral sensation Konbi in Los Angeles, local chefs say that’s not why milk bread has found such a strong audience in San Francisco. ... and plans to start making his own milk bread … For now, Ono believes he’ll be the only one on the West Coast selling it — both as part of the sandwiches and by the package, including an extra-thick-cut version that’s especially good for making toast. Shokupan is a traditional milk bread in Japan and literally means “food bread” or “eating bread.”While the popularity of bread in Japan has had a complicated and long history, milk bread or fluffy white bread in the style of Pullman loaves weren’t really popularized or even introduced until American soldiers came to Japan in the 20 th century. 746 Valencia St., San Francisco. Also available at CAW Den in the Bayview. Starting sometime in mid- to late-January, that will translate into a new standalone restaurant: Dela Curo and Sundo will take over B-Dama, Ono’s Old Oakland restaurant, which has been closed since the start of the pandemic. bread flour, 41g. It is a Japanese method and it makes the bread so incredibly tender, soft and fluffy. In addition to offering fresh loaves, Stonemill serves slices of shokupan toast with matcha butter and red bean jam as well as sandos on milk bread. Hokkaido Milk Bread, Japanese Milky Loaf, Asian Milk Bread, Shokupan, and Pai Bao are only some of the names for a very soft bread made with a tangzhong (see below). Japanese milk bread — also called shokupan — is not just ordinary white bread. Slices of milk bread for the grilled cheese sandwich are seen inside the Breadbelly kitchen on Monday, Nov. 4, 2019 in San Francisco, California. Therefore unlike store bought hot dog buns, these Japanese hot dog buns are soft yet a structured bread. Japanese milk bread satisfied in a similar way, and several recipe reformulations later, she brought it to Breadbelly as the star of the bakery’s best-selling item: toast slathered with kaya, the Singaporean coconut jam. Follow this step-by-step tutorial to make the fluffiest, yummiest bread ever! She grew up in a Filipino household eating the sweet, soft rolls known as pandesal. It's the perfect everyday loaf, from sandwiches to toast, and is one you need to try! Janelle Bitker joined The San Francisco Chronicle in 2019. 415-349-0969 or www.breadbellysf.com. Cover with plastic film, pressing against the surface of the milk-flour mixture to ensure it doesn’t form a skin. Hokkaido is a prefecture in Japan famous for their rich and creamy milk. heavy cream, 63g It’s been a staple at Craftsman, which might sell 50 loaves on its busiest day, according to Figueiredo. Hokkaido bread is famous for light, fluffy, soft, tender and little sweetened bread. Halfway between a dessert and a more conventional sandwich, the fruit sandwiches may be a bit difficult for some American customers to pin down at first. This isn’t some sort of heirloom flour that was milled down the street.”. Photo: Stephen Lam, Special to The Chronicle. Japanese milk bread is probably the lightest, fluffiest, most tender bread you'll come across. “A lot of chefs in fine dining are using the technique and finding it a good alternative to brioche,” said Breadbelly chef-owner Katherine Campecino-Wong, who was previously the pastry chef at Mourad. This is because Japanese milk bread is made using the “Yudane method”. Place the saucepan over low heat and cook the mixture, whisking constantly, until thick and the … #bread … Some people call it snow bread because the flour is dusting on top of the dough and it looks like snow on the bread. Her writing has been recognized by the California Newspaper Publishers Association and Association of Alternative Newsmedia. Mix until smooth and no lumps remain. Dry yeast – 1 tablespoon When Stonemill Matcha opened, she decided milk bread would be a central part of the menu. As the food enterprise reporter, she covers restaurant news as well as Bay Area culture at large through a food lens. 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Loaves ($8) are baked daily. But that nostalgia also hits chefs like Strong, who don’t have an Asian background. B-Dama’s chef wants customers to savor the silky texture of Japan’s most popular milk bread. newsletter, Ono’s forthcoming Japanese curry restaurant, Dela Curo, B-Dama’s Chef Wants East Bay Diners to Know the Pleasures of Japanese Black Curry, Pandemic Binge Drinking Is a Myth, Wine Analyst Says, Vandals Deface SF’s Iconic Cliff House Restaurant, Tripleta Founders Say Chef Aaron London Has Kicked Them Out of Their Own Pop-Up. The demand has been so high that the bakery had to buy more loaf pans earlier this year. parolee accused of killing pedestrians faced life sentence in earlier case, but got five years, Coronavirus live updates: 60 now infected at Kaiser San Jose following deadly incident possibly linked to Christmas costume, Airbnb is asking guests for a new requirement before booking stays in California during pandemic, California cases jump to over 70,000 in a day as state braces for post-holiday surge. Flour – 4 tablespoons; Water – 6 tablespoons; Milk – 6 tablespoons; For the dough. Make the starter: In a small heavy pot, whisk flour, milk and 1/2 cup water (120 milliliters) together … Eventually, Sundo will carry a full slate of savory milk bread sandwiches, including an egg salad sandwich and a chicken katsu sandwich. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until mixture thickens into the consistency of mashed potatoes, about 2 minutes. restaurant, S.F. And at Sundo, the main point of distinction will be the bread itself: Pasco brand choujuku pan, which, according to Ono, has been Japan’s best-selling white bread for a number of years. This bread is so delicious and stays soft for a few days, just wrap it up and leave at room temperature. At … Pastry chef Sara Figueiredo of Craftsman & Wolves said San Francisco’s high Asian population means a lot of interest in Asian baked goods like milk bread. And yes, I have managed to make it vegan! On the following Sunday, December 13, Sundo and Dela Curo will pop up again, this time at the Berkeley Bowl West Cafe. What is Japanese milk bread? For now, Ono is mostly using fresh strawberries for the sandwiches, but he also plans to make versions with mangos, kiwis, and more seasonal fruits. Heat over … The fruit sandwiches are also mild-flavored enough to allow customers to really taste the bread, Ono says. Despite its popularity overseas, the Pasco bread is hard to come by here in the U.S., apart from the couple of Japanese supermarkets in New York that carry it. … “Milk bread has a very Asian taste.”. In the land of sourdough, heavy loaves of dense Tartine Bakery bread and naturally fermented everything, milk bread might seem like a surprising choice for San Francisco chefs. “I’m a dude from the Midwest who grew up on white bread,” he said. Yui and Campecino-Wong agree — they also point to more Asian pastry chefs re-creating old favorites like they’ve done at their bakeries. egg whites, 38g. Add the yeast, some of the sugar and warm … INGREDIENTS. 561 Valencia St., San Francisco. Japanese milk bread is called Hokkaido bread. Kneaded with milk, butter and eggs, the resulting loaf manages to taste delicate and rich at the same time, with a soft, fluffy texture and subtle sweetness. We have many optionals of Japanese Sandwiches. Japanese milk bread — also called shokupan — is not just ordinary white bread. Loafs of Milk bread photographed at Breadbelly on Monday, Nov. 4, 2019 in San Francisco, California. Scaling all the ingredients. But Ono says he wanted to start with the fruit sandwiches in part because they’re not very well known in the U.S., despite being a Japanese convenience store staple. Chefs in San Francisco, sourdough’s spiritual home, have particularly taken to shokupan for dishes that have a … Within just the past year, several spots have opened specializing in Japanese sandwiches that use the bread with crispy pork katsu or creamy egg salad. Japanese Milk Bread Is Coming for Your Lunch. If your bread maker doesn't have an automatic dispenser, add yeast 3 minutes after mixing starts. Measure out remaining ingredients (flour, yeast, milk… milk, 22g. These Japanese milk bread also referred to as Hokkaido milk bread is pillowy soft, light and airy. butter, 10g, softened. The Japanese have a strange fascination with Western food, ... the chef at Stonemill Matcha in San Francisco. “Imagine brioche and Texas toast combined together,” said Mikiko Yui, pastry chef at Stonemill Matcha in the Mission District, by email from Japan. 1408 Clement St., San Francisco. My bread maker takes 45 minutes. Add milk, salt, sugar, soft butter, condensed milk, and flour to the bread maker and yeat to the automatic dispenser. The pop-up will also feature the black curry from Ono’s forthcoming Japanese curry restaurant, Dela Curo. It’s sturdy enough to stand up to a burger but also light enough to allow accompanying ingredients to shine. No spreads, margarine or oleos on these, please! Shipped frozen, the choujuku pan is made with a patented aging process that gives it a texture that’s even silkier and fluffier than other Japanese milk breads (which are already known for their extreme fluffiness.) It’s about nostalgia. Japanese Condensed Milk Bread: The Process Start off by proofing the yeast in a large mixing bowl. Choose from kaya toast ($7), a kaya bun ($5), a char siu sandwich ($16) or kare-pan ($7), a bun stuffed with chicken curry and breaded with panko. Mission bakery Craftsman & Wolves started making an artisanal version with a shiny deep amber crust in 2014. “Shokupan is like exactly what I wished American white bread could be.”, Janelle Bitker is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Scaling the ingredients is quite straightforward. “A lot of people just connect to having something like milk bread that brings back childhood memories,” she said. Baker Tina Nguyen places a rolled milk bread dough onto a baking sheet at Breadbelly on Monday, Nov. 4, 2019 in San Francisco, California. The idea, Ono says, is for his two new concepts — Japanese black curry and Japanese sandwiches — to exist side by side, the same way they would at a depachika, or basement-level food hall that you can find in any big department store in Japan. One of the great joys of Japan’s convenience store culture — among the onigiri, the canned coffee, and the dozens of varieties of instant noodles — is the fact that you can walk into any random 7-Eleven and find a refrigerated case full of tasty, convenient grab-and-go sandwiches that’ll put many American delis to shame. milk, 74g. 415-796-3876 or www.stonemillmatcha.com. Japanese Milk Bread Dinner Rolls deserve butter and nothing less. Stays fresh for days longer than regular bread. Japanese Milk Bread {Easy White Bread} Soft, pillowy Japanese Milk Bread is perfect for slicing and toasting or serving as sandwiches. The Chronicle’s food and culture podcast, hosted by Soleil Ho and Justin Phillips. Email: janelle.bitker@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @janellebitker. Just after World War II, it was a symbol of the American Occupation and a poor substitute for white rice. Previously, she served as a reporter for Eater SF, managing editor at the East Bay Express, and arts & culture editor at the Sacramento News & Review. That’s the inspiration behind Chikara Ono’s (B-Dama, Delage) newest East Bay enterprise, Sundo, which will specialize in Japanese convenience store–style sandwiches — and, especially, in fruit sandwiches: two thick slices of airy-light Japanese milk bread filled with whipped cream and fresh fruit, cut just so to reveal the pleasingly symmetrical cross section of the strawberries and other fruits. What is shokupan or Japanese milk bread? Chinatown’s 100-year-old Far East Cafe postpones closure, How big was San Francisco’s pandemic exodus? It starts with tangzhong, a Chinese roux-like paste, that gives the dough strength and an unusually long shelf life. It starts with tangzhong, a Chinese roux-like paste, that gives the dough strength and an unusually long shelf life. And that’s why the homemade dog bun is worth your effort and time. Warm the flour paste gently until it thickens,stirring, then set aside to cool (this is the tangzhong). Take a loaf ($6) home or enjoy shokupan toast ($6), a katsu sando ($16) or Japanese egg salad sandwich ($12) at the cafe. Specialties: We are brand new business in this neighborhood. For Japanese pastry chefs like Yui, milk bread was all she knew growing up. bread flour, 203g (I used half KAF bread flour and half KAF AP flour for a balance of chewiness and volume) sugar, 33g. Classic Japanese Milk Bread recipe made with cream, milk, and an extra special something that makes it super soft, fluffy, and moist. To make the starter, whisk the bread flour, milk, and water together in a medium saucepan until smooth. San Francisco chefs find nostalgia in Japanese milk bread, Photo: Stephen Lam / Special to The Chronicle. Luke Tsai Eventually, Sundo will carry a full slate of savory milk bread sandwiches, including an egg salad sandwich and a chicken katsu sandwich. I make Japanese milk bread every couple days depending how fast it goes in our house I use real milk not powder and I fold differently After dough rises: -form three equal balls -let them rise again 15 min -roll out to pieces about 6x4 -place dough lengthwise up; fold top 3” down to center, fold bottom 3” to center -turn dough 90 degrees and roll upward (Bread ‘n Chu, in SF’s Richmond District, is one of the only other local spots that routinely offers a version.). About Japanese Milk Bread Dinner Rolls: Oh, and don’t even think about using anything but butter on these, unless, perhaps, you’d like a bit of jam! “I think white bread is kind of taboo in the Bay Area food scene,” said Anthony Strong, chef-owner of Prairie in the Mission. Japanese Milk Bread. Japanese milk bread is also known as Hokkaido milk bread. Japanese Milk Bread (Hokkaido Bread or Shokupan). The sandwiches will make their debut at a pop-up this Sunday, December 6, from noon until whenever they sell out, at Masabaga in downtown Oakland. Milk bread shows up in less expected places as well: whipped with uni for a luxurious dip at Prairie; hugging a Japanese-inspired hot dog at Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski’s restaurant, the Progress; toasted under beets and ricotta at Sunday at the Museum in the Asian Art Museum; and as a bun injected with pandan-coconut pastry cream at Breadbelly in the Richmond District. The steps are: Put water and small amount of flour in a small pan. by Caleb Pershan Aug 20, ... crustless milk bread sandwiches at 1900 Clement for a … It has the soft white bread texture you know and love! It can even be pulled apart into flaky layers. For the Japanese, bread was, and still is, loaded with historical significance. - final dough. Look at U-Haul traffic, California’s EDD freezes many people’s unemployment benefits to combat fraud, Why CO2 monitors and indoor ventilation may be a key to curb COVID spread, S.F. ‘This week is critical’. “I feel a little guilty eating it sometimes. salt, 4g. Egg salad is ready for its close-up. For Sunday’s pop-up at Masabaga, the fruit sandwiches will priced at $5 for two triangular wedges — half of a full sandwich, essentially. Milk bead hugs a wobbly spinach frittata for the breakfast sandwich ($10), and the shiny loaves ($8.50) are popular on their own. But the idea, again, is for customers to relish the texture and flavor of the bread itself. milk powder, 15g. Since then, milk bread has gradually taken hold of San Francisco. 1. 415-913-7713 or www.craftsman-wolves.com. “It’s nice to have another option in a repertoire so you’re not stuck with just French or European-style doughs.”. 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